Whenever I'm at my cousin Maymay's, this will make an appearance on her table, and yesterday was no exception. But it was only yesterday, as I looked at a bowl of this, sandwiched between the plate of crisp, browned bacon and the glazed chocolate scones I'd taken along as my contribution to breakfast (which we characteristically had at high noon), that it occured to me how very simple, yet very versatile this actually is. As I plunged the tines of my fork into one and popped it in my mouth, I...

What follows is less a recipe and more the conclusion of an experiment with rather tasty results. I have been reading, cover to cover, hitherto something I'd never done with a cookbook, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's "River Cottage Meat Book", the last 2 weeks or so. It's a heavy book, mildly put and I actually packed it before leaving Singapore. I've never been happier to spend money on a cookbook and I'll be posting my thoughts in "Kitchen Lust" when I'm done with Mr Double-Barrelled Surname...